Dress to impress? Dress to express? Or dress to exist? Fashion has long been an integral part of self-expression, so much so it took root as a method of protest in several significant movements. The influence of an outfit on the first impression of an individual is one thing, but when an entire movement unifies together to use style to their advantage it can have a substantial impression for a movement. Although on the surface it may come off as a miniscule matter in comparison to a movement as powerful as the Civil Rights Movement, clothing and how protesters dress played a symbolic role in the process. 

In the case of the Civil Rights Movement, a nonviolent social movement meant to abolish the discrimination of racial minorities in America, primarily black people, how protesters presented themselves had a massive impact on the reputation of the movement. For people of privilege to acknowledge racial minorities as equals, one of the first steps for protestors was to dress in a way that exceeded the image that stereotypes bestowed upon them. There became an expectation within the movement to dress in one’s “Sunday Best” – put together, respectable, and modest. Men were seen wearing full suits and ties with nice dress shoes. Women were seen wearing button-ups and cardigans paired with skirts and stockings. This was considered dignifying clothing, implementing a sense of style-conscious activism into the movement. By dressing this way, they were highlighting how black Americans were as deserving of rights as white Americans. Dressing for freedom was a statement calling for the same level of respect associated with how they dressed. This message and the route taken to convey it further confirmed the movement’s methods of nonviolence, showcasing fashion’ ability to strengthen the movement.

Rosa Parks, a civil rights activist, protested the segregation of buses by refusing to move seats. She was a respectable woman, and always dressed the part – she was seen wearing clean and modest clothing, but regardless of her presentation she was forcibly removed by law enforcement. Being manhandled by those policemen was a message for women in America, especially black women, that regardless of how dignified one is, they can still be a victim of violent enforcement. Parks’ presentation of herself assisted in making her protest well-known, but also conveyed a strong message of how doing everything the oppressors told them to do to be treated as equals was still not enough.

Fashion has long been a point of contention for women, as historically, women’s clothing has not been designed with the comfort of women in mind, but rather society’s perception of them. Women’s clothing has most often been designed to please the male gaze and societal expectations, but women grew tired of their societal value being tied to their clothing choices. To combat this, women began designing their own clothing in response to historical dictation over what they wear. Modesty has always been a key factor in the way a woman is judged, so how a woman protests with her clothes has to be strategic to avoid complete ostracization. During the time when women were always expected to wear skirts, women’s trousers began to rise in popularity. New concepts such as bloomers were introduced as early as the 18oos, supporting women joining the industrial workforce. As women began to take more liberties when choosing personal style, the necessity for modesty began to decline as new ideas about what is considered modest were explored. In the 1920s, flapper dresses and short bobbed haircuts were a symbol of the youth party culture – typically frowned upon by older generations. In the 1960s, the introduction of miniskirts sparked huge controversy as younger folks dressing in such ways were considered scandalous. In a sense, the introduction of these small skirts aided the idea of the “respectable and modest” fashion that civil rights protestors sported. 

This newly introduced fashion was much less respected at the time, however, these new skirts and shorter dresses became a symbol for the sexual revolution – along with staples of femininity such as red lipstick and pearls. These symbols became a commentary on how women should not be undignified nor judged for a part of their body that is considered socially shameful to “show off”. This extended to others as people began exploring freedom of expression through these bold fashion choices. The counterculture movement, in the 1960s-1970s, for example, challenged traditional values and social norms. Artistic expression via protest, sex, and fashion choices became a crucial part of the movement. By challenging the “socially acceptable” fashion norms, people were forced to reflect on clothes’ role in hindering or helping self-expression. Embracing clothes as part of activism can add another important layer to the influence a movement has on the world.

Reach writer Makayla Dino at musemediauw@gmail.com. Instagram @makrrd