Sustainability in Fashion

BY

DAVIN

Sustainability in fashion has become an ever more important initiative in the wake of the global climate crisis. And while many big name houses in the industry have begun to incorporate more and more sustainable practices, likely due to pressures from eco-conscious consumers and activist groups alike, there are a plethora of smaller brands that have been doing their part from the get-go. Here is a short compiled list to bring to the limelight some of fashion’s largely unrecognized and underexposed brands preaching the code of sustainability. 

EDEN Power Corp 

Founded by milliner Isaac Larose and Florence Provencher-Proulx in early 2019, EDEN Power Corp aims to educate consumers about sustainability presented through a plethora of products that serve to illustrate utopian visions for that specific industry of goods. Embracing its core mission for sustainability, EDEN Power Corp gives meticulous attention towards its garment production process. T-shirts are made from recycled cotton and are printed with natural dyes, while jackets, pants, and hats are produced using reclaimed plastics and upcycled fabrics that would otherwise go to waste. Recently, handmade hats by local artisans in Corund, Transylvania constructed out of 100% amadou mushroom felt further push the brand’s message of “Alternatives for a better future”, deviating from conventional modes of fashion production. The brand has also partnered up with Eden Reforestation Projects and their tree planting initiative, with EDEN Power Corp planting 20 trees for every purchase made on their website. And to top it all off? Every sold garment comes with hangtags embedded with seeds that can be planted. Truly, EDEN Power Corp has been nothing short of innovating the possibilities for a sustainable future of streetwear. 

See what they’re all about at: https://edenpowercorp.com/

Kanghyuk 

Many emerging brands that dabble in the recent resurgence of upcycling tend to primarily work towards giving old clothes new life. South Korean brand Kanghyuk however, uniquely focuses on prolonging the life of a seemingly abstract but abundant commodity of the industrial world to utilize in fashion: vehicle airbags. Kanghyuk Choi’s eponymous label repurposes airbags in the creation of garments, an obsession turned fundamental design philosophy for the designer since his days studying at the Royal College of Art. This cross-disciplinary approach of using auto industry waste in the making of clothes is not only ideological but also provides a refreshing and distinct aesthetic within the fashion scene that is exceedingly difficult to imagine recreating without the use of airbags. As such, the brand quickly garnered recognition from industry giants like retailer H. Lorenzo and even a collaboration with Reebok, impressive for such a young brand. Kanghyuk was even shortlisted for the 2019 LVMH Prize, just two years after its launch in 2017 and has consistently dominated the Korean fashion scene, recently winning the 2022 Samsung Fashion & Design Fund Awards. In all, Kanghyuk is a shining example for innovation in the fashion industry in a responsible manner. 

Check them out at: http://kanghyuk.net

Old Park 

While larger brands like Patagonia have recently began embarking on initiatives towards the upcycling and repair of vintage goods, therefore making sustainability increasingly mainstream within fashion, that hasn’t stopped the likes of younger and more underground labels from upcycling unwearable items on their own terms. Since 2012, underground Japanese label Old Park has recycled undesirable garments into covetable new creations, in a similar vein to the relatively more renowned Rebuild by Needles (in large part to a collaboration with A$AP affiliated collective AWGE which greatly publicized that Japanese brand). However, Old Park further embraces a wabi-sabi philosophy into their mix-match design to invoke more of a fusion between Western and Japanese cultural perspectives rather than the more accessible nature of Rebuild garments, which instead convey more of a Japanese interpretation of Americana staples. This aesthetic resonated with Takahiromiyashita the Soloist, founder and former designer of historical brand Number (N)ine, which subsequently led to collaborations between the two Japanese labels. Other notable works produced by the label include a 3-way collab with Empty Room Archives and Tyusoshi Nakano’s Skoloct as well as a one-off collection of upcycled North Face, Nike, and Patagonia flight jackets. 

See what they have to offer at: @oldpark_oldparkeast on IG

Greg Lauren 

Let’s address the question that always seems to pop up when mentioning Greg Lauren to brand newcomers. Yes, Greg Lauren is part of the influential Lauren family in fashion, specifically the nephew of legendary American designer Ralph Lauren. This only scratches the surface however 

to Greg Lauren’s personal work. Initially a painter and sculptor following an education at Princeton University, Greg Lauren began his creative pursuits through fine art, building recognition with clients such as Ben Stiller or even DC Comics. In what was perhaps a premonition for what was to come, Lauren showcased his “Alteration” exhibition in 2009 which featured menswear pieces fully recreated out of paper and painstakingly sewn together. Two years later, Lauren would bring that vision to fruition with the launch of his eponymous label and debut collection. Built on the aesthetic philosophy of Japanese wabi-sabi, Greg Lauren’s garments feel thoroughly contemporary through tasteful and calculated mashups of textures, patterns, and fabrics. As such, this approach has facilitated Lauren towards sustainability with his “no scrap goes unused” initiative. Lauren prioritizes the reincorporation of fabric waste and scraps into the incarnation of new garments, ultimately preventing leftover textile from ending up in a landfill. Altogether, it’s a testament towards Lauren’s unique creativity that transcends the conventions within various mediums, whether it be fine art or fashion design. 

You can find the latest and more at: https://www.greglauren.com/

Jiyong Kim 

Hailing from South Korea, Jiyong Kim and his eponymous label challenges the 92 million tons of waste generated by the industry ever so cleverly: on nature’s accord. How so? By harnessing the power of the sun. Although only having recently graduated from the venerated Central Saint Martins (CSM) fashion school, Kim has already begun making a name for himself, with stints at 

Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, Lemaire, and even Louis Vuitton alongside the late Virgil Abloh already in his portfolio. Now add on the fact that Kim’s homeland of South Korea faces some of the worst air pollution among developed countries and the young designer’s endeavors become all the more impressive. To translate his environmental outlook to his garments, Kim assembles his pieces with reclaimed fabrics, from which he then proceeds to either pin onto mannequins or wire fencing which are left out in the sun. Becoming a study of natural weathering, pieces are left outside for up to five months during which the sun and the elements such as wind and rainfall dynamically produce discolorations and patterns of fading. Kim has also ingeniously developed methods to manipulate the direction of his sun-bleaching to match his design vision, using hardware, mesh, or straps to either underexpose areas for varied color saturation or even etch on designs, similar to how tan lines develop on skin. The end products are characterized by a nuanced visual depth that simply can’t be replicated by man. Most recently, Kim debuted his first runway show at London Fashion Week as part of the CSM MA Fashion Showcase. With his fresh perspective on naturally-driven garment design processes, the emerging designer holds much potential and is well on his way towards building a lasting legacy in the South Korean fashion scene and fashion sustainability at large. 

Check out the designer’s most current projects: @jiyongkim_official on IG

Ground Cover 

For those in the loop of the Youtube fashion community, you may have heard of Avery Ginsberg through his online presence on the GearedTowardGear channel. Much has changed for the young visionary since his media debut in 2017, with Ginsberg being better known as a designer of his own right as of late. One of his latest ventures is Ground Cover, a footwear and accessories label founded by Ginsberg in 2020 which builds off of his prior experience co-founding Staatsballet, an environmentally-conscious label itself. Ground Cover was conceived by Ginsberg as a response to the void in the market he saw for sustainable, high-quality footwear. The brand’s flagship offering, the 8 Eye Boot, is constructed using pineapple fibers and a proprietary lug sole that remains durable yet biodegradable. Such an ethical and environmentally-conscious approach has also been applied to other products including the linen Tsuno bag, the Peace ring (made with recycled silver), and most recently, the Backzip boot (made using cactus leather and other recycled animal-free materials) . Through Ground Cover, Ginsberg hopes to transform sustainability into more than just a fad within fashion. For Ginsberg, who himself has switched to a plant-based lifestyle in 2017 to reflect upon his values against animal cruelty, Ground Cover is more than just about creating sustainable products but rather an entirely new way of thinking in fashion that crosses over into one’s lifestyle. 

Check out their site at: https://www.ground-cover.com/